However, gold and the PGMs are usually found as chlorides in a solution of HCl. Circulation is more important than heat.ģ) In theory, any metal higher in the reactivity series will replace all metals lower in the series, so since silver is more reactive, it should cement gold and the PGMs. The precious metal ions in the solution you're trying to cement most come into contact with the metal you're using to cement the precious metal. More important is circulation of the solution. A small amount of nitric is desirable to get the cementation reaction going, but your goal should always be to use only enough nitric to dissolve your values.Ģ) heat increases the speed of most chemical reactions, so a warmer solution will generally react more quickly. It can not be neutralized, unlike acid.ġ) If you don't use up all the nitric in your AR prior to cementing, the excess nitric will first dissolve some of the metal you're using to cement, but will then progress into the replacement reaction. I was told that the body can neutralize acid and recover, but had the drop of solution been lye, I would have been blinded in that eye. The ophthalmologist told me how lucky I was that I was working with acid and not lye. I was alone, so I had to drive myself to an ophthalmologist. I was near water, so it was rinsed very quickly. Within seconds of the splash, the surface of my eye was yellow and was shedding. I had the misfortune of splashing a drop of 68% nitric acid directly in my right eye, many years ago. im not saying thats what it is, just that if its not gold or a PGM, its not worth worrying about. its not uncommon for heavy copper parts to be coated with a thin coating of silver but its so little its not economical to recover it. if you tested and no PM's showed up, i would focus on the recovery of the silver. Does either book have the Sulfuric Cell in them? That is the route I will be going as I will have almost always plated items.Īgain I appreciate the knowledge here, and thank each and everyone of you.ĭefinitely an oxidation barrier. I notice Hoke's book and another gold refining book are both over 100$ on Amazon, my question is are they worth it, and has anyone read both books, to compare to let me know which to buy? I see most are biased towards Hoke's book but from reading reviews it seems the "newer" or other author's book seems to fit my needs? Hoping to get much input on this. I have bought a few items from Lazersteve and will probably buy more as soon as I learn of it. I will just stockpile "tools" and "gold" until I feel comfortable with the operation, I'm very excited I found this place as everyone seems very knowledgeable. I recently joined this forum, have read a little bit and am buying what I need to get started, so far I've spend about 400$, on things I may not even need, but I've read enough to realize I may need something at some time or another.
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